Barrel Bolt Latch, Sliding Bolt Gate Lock Door Latches Hardware, 7.7 Inch Heavy Duty Solid 304 Stainless Stee Door Lock for Fence/Wooden/Barn Door/Yard Door/Interior Door Latch (1 Pack Black)

We put these latches on a double-door swinging commercial kitchen door at a church. They're solid bolts and do a good job of securing the doors. We extended them up into the frame rather than down into concrete flooring because we feel there's a possibility we will need to move the wall, and rather than put holes in the floor for a temporary fix, we would rather put the bolts into the frame. It's less secure that way, but we're not looking to make the door all that secure, merely to keep people out who would otherwise mess up the kitchen. These were a good solution, and would be a very secure solution if they extended into the floor instead of the frame.

Like how this will give my French doors more security and help seal doors to frame by pushing doors and holding seal and drafts out

Works fine for shed double doors. You MUST line up EXACTLY the barrel bolt with the female receiver. However once you do that, you have very good security with double doors.

As described, all parts there. Needed some lubrication to work smoothly.

We have a huge entrance French door and the locks for the secondary would work them self open and the doors would both open even tho the deadbolt was locked. Kinda scary so I purchased this bolt style lock and now the secondary door stays perfectly locked while the primary door opens and locks better. I would recommend a good 20mm 3/4ths concrete coring bit and some good concrete glue for the bolt lock retainer that you need to install in your floor. I couldn't be happier with the look and function of this simple but strong lock. 💪

Looks good & works great.

Works as intended.

Very solid and nice looking. However, it is somewhat tricky to fix the latch in an "up" / unlatched position. Also, the pin plate (into which the pin engages) is in an "L" configuration, with the screw holes in a different part of the "L" than the pin hole. This means that if one is installing it onto a floor board, one must have or create a space for the screw hole portion of the "L" to slip in AND find a way to slant the screws in to fix the pin plate in place. I suppose one could use a vise to straighten the "L" into a flat piece, but I managed without doing that.