Bosch 15717 Premium Original Equipment Oxygen Sensor - Compatible With Select 1989-16 Ford, Jaguar, Lincoln, Mazda, and Mercury Vehicles

Solved my runability issues

The sensor was very easy to install with the right tools of course. The connector was just exactly like the original. Works perfectly fine.

The quality is good for the price and my gas mileage increased by 3 miles to the gallon. Over time the sensors will give off a false lean condition and new ones will help the motor majorly.

worked great on my 08 ford F250 6.8L

These are a perfect fit for my 04 F150 however, previous installations of both the Bosch and Ford OEM Oxy sensors have failed in less than a year.

Fits and works. Be sure to get an O2 socket adapter to remove the old one

Cannot believe how inexpensive these were. Fairly easy install on Superduty with a V10. Truck runs great, idles smooth. Still only gets 14 MPG though...why would anyone fo with a no name brand when these are available?

Ford Ranger P1131 Code2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 3.0 Flex Fuel with P1131 code.Trouble code P1131 means: Lack Of HO2S11 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean.The possible causes are the same for code P1130: Excess fuel pressure: My 2000 Ranger would always get Check Engine Light two days after filling up: after the fuel pump went ‘ca-chunk’ I would goose it a few more ‘ca-chunks’ to really top off the tank. After I stopped doing that the error code stopped 95%, sometimes when I fill up and then it gets really hot out the fuel expands and sets the code—but much rarely, it used to be every single time I filled up.I spent $9 and changed the PCV valve (really easy and no tools required: just fingers). I also sprayed cleaner into my IAC valve. Instead of getting a P1131 code every week I only get it once a month. After I did the above (including not overfilling my gas tank) for kicks I cleaned my MAF sensor (with circuit board cleaner, but CRC makes a special MAF spray cleaner if you're unsure). I also cleaned the huge connector for the flex fuel sensor which is underneath the truck under the driver's seat on the inside of the rail: sometimes those connectors get filled with water/mud.For good measure I changed the fuel filter too (even though I de-compressed the system it still sprayed like 4 dixie cups worth of gasoline when I unhooked it--be careful).Turns out most of my problem was overfilling, or filling right before a big rise in temperature outside that swelled the gas in the tank. DUH! It was always weird that people would say it might be the actual sensor going bad:"Your 02 sensor is going off, so change the sensor!" Like, think about that: if your smoke alarm in your house went off you wouldn't buy a new smoke alarm would you? You put out the fire. So since 2003 I've had this issue and I finally fixed it by not topping off my fuel tank, and I think carb cleaner in the IAC valve helped get rid of the rough idle!And everything was fine until the first ever change of spark plugs at 93k: mileage went up, but the CEL went on every day! Same p1131 code plus a p1132, so changing the right (passenger side) upstream (closest to the engine near the front tire) O2 sensor with this unit worked and I've got the idle so smooth it's almost better than new!THE ABOVE FIXESOh, you can clear a CEL code with a cheap $15 OBD II reader, or (on a Ford Ranger) unplug the car battery, turn the key on and off 6 times. This clears the code, but also clears your radio station presets ;)Other P1130 and P1131 problems can be:Fuel system pressure/problem (gas cap, overfilling gas tank, leaking/losing fuel pressure, leaking fuel filter or vapor system). Oil pressure problem: loose oil dipstick.Leaking or contaminated fuel injectors. Stuck EGR valve. Too much oil/oil overfilled. PCV valve problem. Cylinder or exhaust or vacuum leak. Leaking gaskets or hoses. Damaged PCM or HO2s sensors. Water in VPWR or HO2s or Flex Fuel wire connectors.